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Post by Mark O on Mar 27, 2012 13:28:42 GMT 9
LOVE the pics Lindel!! :thanks
I was immediately drawn to the pics that show how far back the white paint goes in the intakes. (I know that subject has come up before here.) The IR seeker head is also very cool. So glad that was saved. It sounds like a really cool plan is forming for the future display!
Keep 'em coming on the progress of the restoration if you can!!
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MOW
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Post by MOW on Mar 27, 2012 18:43:24 GMT 9
Excellent Lindel :2thumbsup :2thumbsup I will get these posted as soon a I can. Sounds like quite a venturous project they have there.
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Post by bear (Deceased) on Mar 28, 2012 13:00:32 GMT 9
Question on the doors are the cylinder still there? It would be possible to run them on very low air pressure or change the cylinder to hdy and run at a lower pressure, then the ramp could be operated also providing the drive assembly hasn't been removed. The control Voltage would be 28VDC. The control valve for the IR head was located on the bulkhead front of NWW rh side , air operated. The FTD trainers had Hdy to operate the doors and rails and 125psi air compressor for the IR hear. I have one of those compressor which I will donate for this project.
Bear
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Post by lindel on Mar 28, 2012 13:06:53 GMT 9
Thanks, you confirmed what I thought I knew. We'll have to get it off of the trailer to check the doors. I think they're there, but can't say positively.
I'll keep the offer in mind if we need it, and thanks for the offer.
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Post by lugnuts55 on Mar 29, 2012 1:30:46 GMT 9
I am going over to see what Dave has and to meet him tomorrow (3/28/12). I'm looking forward to this. It should be interesting work.
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Post by lugnuts55 on Mar 30, 2012 23:28:42 GMT 9
I spent about 2 1/2 hours with Dave and his F-106 yesterday afternoon. He seems to have a good idea of what he wants. We talked about having a special jig made that will bolt to the face of the exposed surface and whether it would be strong enough to support the weight. I think it would if it's made right. He has a person who could make one for the project. I was looking for missile bay door actuators but I couldn't see far enough inside the bay from the rear. The first thing Dave wants to do is get it off the trailer. Once that is done, then the exploring will continue. He also said he would have to get the canopy open or off. He hasn't been able to get inside to see what else is there. It is surprisingly complete. It just might be something that can be done and done well. I was excited just to be in there with it. I hadn't seen an F-106A or B in 41 years. It's ironic, though, that the last F-106 I saw was my B model as it was taxiing out to the taxi way. Then the First real part of an F-106 happens to be a B model.
I took some pictures and some are similar to the ones lindel took and posted. I will compare our shots and pick out the ones that are different. Actually, I will see if there are any new ones in the 14 shots I took. I need to find out how to post pictures here so everybody can follow this project..
I am also looking forward to meeting lindel. I am the lucky one that my hometown has been selected as a location for a restoration project. He has to drive some, although not excessively far. We have to meet eventually and I hope it is soon.
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Post by lugnuts55 on Mar 30, 2012 23:38:50 GMT 9
I forgot something but I was looking inside the right vari-ramp and I could see a "U" joint with rods on either end which indicates to me that the vari-ramp might be made to operate as lindel was hoping. Dave mentioned that he was thinking about having a control box with all the switches for each item he wants to control. I suggested having a long length of electrical cable and put matching ends on the cable and on the aircraft but putting it in the same location that ground power was applied to the real airplane.
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MOW
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Post by MOW on Apr 1, 2012 7:50:28 GMT 9
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Post by lugnuts55 on Apr 1, 2012 11:24:53 GMT 9
I think it was 14 pictures that I just sent. Please let me know you got them because I was not familiar with the email sender that was used. If you need descriptions of what I was trying to get, let me know. I had to look at a couple of them after I got home and put them on my computer.
By the way, I will be happy to send all the pictures I take.
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Post by MOW on Apr 1, 2012 11:32:17 GMT 9
I think it was 14 pictures that I just sent. Please let me know you got them because I was not familiar with the email sender that was used. If you need descriptions of what I was trying to get, let me know. I had to look at a couple of them after I got home and put them on my computer. By the way, I will be happy to send all the pictures I take. Got'm all and I'm uploading to the website now. That's my email address.
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Post by bear (Deceased) on Apr 1, 2012 12:12:23 GMT 9
Looking at the pictures on the display page #13 shows the center door actuators and the linkage also show the left rail with actuator, #13 shows the cocking handle on the back of the rail,and #14 show more of the center actuators and linkage. Very good pictures. My guess is the front actuator are still there.
Bear
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Post by lugnuts55 on Apr 1, 2012 13:46:34 GMT 9
Bear, Thanks for the nice comment. I'm glad I was able to get some that are useful, even if it was an accident. Actually I had an advantage. I was able to read the posts after linden was there and took pictures. There was a question about the actuators for the doors. I thought I would try to get one in the general direction. The picture of the right side, is that handle that you have to press the button to remove it, the cocking handle? I tried to get a shot of that because I knew someone here would recognize it. I tried to get good clear pictures but it was not too well-lit right there. On top of that, I had a battery that was just about dead. I went to the camera bag and got the spare battery. Dang, it was already dead. I tried the shot anyway and I got it but the camera focused on the nearest subject, which was a that huge bundle of wires. I bought two new batteries so there is a fresh one n the camera and one in the pocket as a spare so that should not happen again.
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Post by bear (Deceased) on Apr 1, 2012 23:28:28 GMT 9
If I remember correctly the rail and door actuators have a locking system to keep them retracted when there is no air pressure on the aircraft. So using to air to operate the the doors and rails it will have to high enough pressure to release the locks. There were door open switches that were located on the rear actuators that had to be made before the rails could be extended, also rail up switches before the doors would close. I know the is a long way off before they get to that but just some general info.
Bear
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Post by lugnuts55 on Apr 2, 2012 4:04:09 GMT 9
Dave Peltz, the owner, wants to make everything workable. He wants the doors to open and close but much slower and safer. I remember how fast those doors opened and the racks came down and how fast everything went back before the doors slam shut. The speed was impressive. He is thinking about using electrical devices whenever possible. I hope he doesn't plan to put 3000psi in the air system! He told me and probably Lindel as well, that he wants to have a control box with switches to control the functions of everything we can make work. Any info you have, like that about the rails, could be very helpful.
I was a crew chief on an F-106B and I have limited knowledge of all the systems. The rest was known by the specialists in the shops. When we get to where we are trying to make something work, we will put the question out there for the specialists who are on this web site. That is me talking, not Dave, but I doubt he would not want me to ask for help. He knows where the answers are and there are a great many of them on this great web site.
Speaking of help, I would like to know where we might be able to get some T.O.'s so we can get an idea how things work and to help us understand something when we get an answer from someone here.
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MOW
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Post by MOW on Apr 2, 2012 5:18:54 GMT 9
I have a T.O. 1F-106A-2-1 I still haven't posted on the website yet. I'll get to it soon.
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Post by lugnuts55 on Apr 2, 2012 6:04:51 GMT 9
MOW, That's cool. I don't think this project will be moving at the speed of light. Whenever you get to it I'm sure will be just in time. Thanks
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Post by bear (Deceased) on Apr 2, 2012 9:24:05 GMT 9
Just general info the doors and rails operated at 1500 psi regulated air pressure.. I don't remember at what press the Pneumatic Lite came on, but you could run one trigger salvo after that.
Bear
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Post by Jim on Apr 2, 2012 10:06:30 GMT 9
2 questions that I can't remember the answers to:
1. Are the actuator and center door rod attach point mount bolts accessible from outside the doors? I mean the mounts themselves, not the bolts that attach the actuator/rod ends to the mounts.
2. Is there room enough for a small person to crawl fwd far enough to remove the door rod/mount and actuator rod end attach bolts?
If so, this would allow the doors to drop free when the "center" actuators and rods are disconnected from the doors. This would gain access to the upper end of the actuators to remove the mount bolts and remove the actuators.
A BIT OF CAUTIONARY ADVICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DON'T APPLY ANY AIR PRESSURE OR HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TO THESE ACTUATORS JUST YET!!!!! IT HAS BEEN AT LEAST 28 YEARS SINCE THESE ACTUATORS HAVE OPERATED!!!!!! Remove the AN or MS fittings from the actuaors and fill the cylinder ports from both "open" and "close" ports with mineral oil and cap/plug ports and let oil soak the "O"ring seals for a long period of time. This is to soften the seals and put some life back into them. Then operate the actuator by hand. I do not know if the air seals are suitable for use with hyd. fluid or not. Even so, I would use as low air pressure as would cause the piston to move slowly.....
As to the vari ramp and the "u" joint you saw, it should be connected to a flex drive gear box mounted between the upper aand lower ramp actuators, same for the other side. There should have been an airmotor in there some place to drive that "u" joint you saw.
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Post by lugnuts55 on Apr 2, 2012 11:34:42 GMT 9
Jim, I couldn't begin to answer your questions but I will print this out and hang on to it. When we are able to get the project off the trailer and onto a locally manufactured support bracket at the rear, I will take it to the hangar with me. Maybe Lindel knows or has an idea. I never had to do anything in the missile bay.
As for the actuators, thanks for the good advice. It's been quite a long time since I had to do anything with an actuator of any kind. I would be surprised if Dave wants to use hydraulic pressure. He said he would like to use electricity if possible. I think this is something that needs to be researched to determine the better course of action.
Bear, You have a great memory. Now that you say that, I remember hearing that. However, I still would not want to get caught in the way of those doors. I had a lot of respect for those doors. About as much as I had for the ejection seats until I pinned them.
I believe that universal joint is in there because the devices they are connected to via rods are unable to be located in a way that would allow a single rod to turn and cause the ramp to move in either direction. I should note that I don't know for sure whether the rods connected to the u joint are what cause the ramp to operate.
I haven't heard from Lindel yet since this project came about. I hope he will still be able to participate. I'm still looking forward to meeting him.
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Post by ma1marv on Apr 2, 2012 12:50:25 GMT 9
PLEASE - Please - get more pictures! I'm interested in seeing a few other areas of this airframe so I may be able to lend some adivice and knowledge to help you get throught some of the mess I see there! WOrd of caution - with all the cut cable bundles i see - DO NOT apply power but only as necessary to get at something. It might just smoke on you! Looks like a bunch of the old - old wiring is still there and it was not fireproof!
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